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'''Palau'''  (7° 30' N, 133° 30' E) Palau, Micronesia (Also known as Belau) is situated among the Western Caroline Islands on the western Pacific rim, approximately 600 km from the nearest large landmasses (Papua New Guinea to the south and the Philippines to the west). It is comprised of over 400 limestone and volcanic islands.
 
==History ==
'''Palau'''  (7° 30' N, 133° 30' E) Palau, Micronesia (Also known as Belau) is situated among the Western Caroline Islands on the western Pacific rim. The Palau archipelago consists of more than 350 islets most of which are remnants of a tectonically uplifted coral reef <ref name=" Fitzpatrick & Kataoka ">{{cite book|title= Prehistoric fishing in Palau, Micronesia: evidence from the Northern Rock Islands |accessdate=|author= Fitzpatrick, S.M and Kataoka, O. |authorlink= |coauthors= |date=2005 |format= |work= |publisher= Arch Oceania |pages= 40: 1-13 |language= |archiveurl= |archivedate= |quote= }}</ref>. The curved island chain runs for 150 km from North to South is 25km across at its widest point <ref name=" Hawkins & Castillo ">{{cite book|title= Early history of the Izu-Bonin-Mariana arc system: Evidence from Belau and the Palau trench |accessdate=|author= Hawkins, J.W.  and Castillo, P. |authorlink= |coauthors= |date=1998 |format= |work= |publisher= The Island Arc |pages= 7: 559-578|language= |archiveurl= |archivedate= |quote= }}</ref> <ref name=" Snyder & Butler ">{{cite book|title= Early history of the Izu-Bonin-Mariana arc system: Evidence from Belau and the Palau trench |accessdate=|author= Snyder, D. and Butler,D.M |authorlink= |coauthors= |date=1997 |format= |work= |publisher= Micronesian Resources Study |pages= |language= |archiveurl= |archivedate= |quote= }}</ref>.  The nearest large landmasses are New Guinea to the South and the Philippines to the West, both approximately  800km from Palau.
Palau has been occupied by humans for at least 3500 years although it is unknown who the first settlers of the  islands were <ref name="Fitzpatrick">{{cite book|title= |accessdate=|author= Fitzpatrick, S.M. |authorlink= |coauthors= |date=2003 |format= |work= |publisher=Antiquity 77.|pages= 719-731 |language= |archiveurl= |archivedate= |quote= }}</ref>.  As part of the Carolinian archipelago, the islands were sighted by European navigators as early as the 16th century. In 1686, the Spanish explorer Francisco Lezcano named Yap Island (now in the Federated States of Micronesia) "La Carolina" after King Charles II of Spain. The name was later generalized to include all the islands. Spanish sovereignty was established in 1885. In 1899, after Spain's defeat in the Spanish-American War of 1898, Palau, with the rest of the Carolines, was sold to Germany. At the outbreak of World War I in 1914, the islands were taken by the Japanese. As a member of the League of Nations, Japan was given a mandate over Palau in 1920, and Koror was developed as an administrative center of Japanese possessions in the north Pacific. <ref name="palau history">{{cite web|url= http://www.nationsencyclopedia.com/Asia-and-Oceania/Palau-HISTORY.html| title= Nationsencyclopedia.com|accessdate=|author= |authorlink= |coauthors= |date=2007 |format= |work= |publisher=|pages= |language= |archiveurl= |archivedate= |quote= }}</ref>In 1947, following occupation by US forces in World War II, Palau became part of the UN Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, which was administered by the United States. <ref name="palau history"/> After three decades as part of the UN Trust Territory of the Pacific under US administration, this westernmost cluster of the Caroline Islands opted for independence in 1978 rather than join the Federated States of Micronesia. A Compact of Free Association with the US was approved in 1986, but not ratified until 1993. It entered into force the following year, when the islands gained independence. <ref name="geography">{{cite web|url= http://geography.about.com/library/cia/blcpalau.htm| title= Geography.com|accessdate=|author= CIA |authorlink= |coauthors= |date=2007 |format= |work= |publisher=|pages= |language= |archiveurl= |archivedate= |quote= }}</ref>
 
== Geography ==
== Geography ==
=== Area ===  
=== Area ===  
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*highest point: Mount Ngerchelchuus 242 m <ref name="CIA">{{cite web|url= https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/ps.html |title= CIA factbook|accessdate=|author= CIA |authorlink= |coauthors= |date=2007 |format= |work= |publisher=|pages=  |language= |archiveurl= |archivedate= |quote= }}</ref>
*highest point: Mount Ngerchelchuus 242 m <ref name="CIA">{{cite web|url= https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/ps.html |title= CIA factbook|accessdate=|author= CIA |authorlink= |coauthors= |date=2007 |format= |work= |publisher=|pages=  |language= |archiveurl= |archivedate= |quote= }}</ref>


Palau has a total landmass of 458km2, Babeldaob is the largest island in this archipelago and covers an area of 363km2 <ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/>, which is more than 80% of the landmass of the entire archipelago. The remainder of the landmass consists of three volcanic islands (Koror, Ngerekebesang and Ngemelachel), an atoll (Kayangel), platform like reef islands (Peleliu, Anguar and parts of Koror) and several hundred uplifted coralline limestone islands or “Rock islands” <ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/><ref name=" Olsudong ">{{cite book|title= Cultural Heritage and Communities in Palau |accessdate=|author= Olsudong, R. |authorlink= |coauthors= |date=2006 |format= |work= |publisher= Micronesian Journal of the Humanities and Social Sciences |pages=5(1/2): p547 |language= |archiveurl= |archivedate= |quote= }}</ref>. In the Western pacific trench system, the Cenozoic subduction zone has lead to the Western Pacific basin being rimmed by trenches, back arc basins and island arcs <ref name=" Hawkins & Castillo "/>. The islands constituting Palau are apart of one of these island arcs systems. The 350 islands and islets of the Palau archipelago constitute the southernmost exposure of the Kyushu Palau Ridge <ref name=" Hawkins & Castillo "/>. Most of the islands are gaurded by a barrier reef with the exception for Kayangel Island in the North, and Anguar island as well as South West Island group to the South <ref name=" Olsudong "/>.  Palau is tectonically active with Babeldaob and Koror still rising relative to sea level.
===Babeldaob===
Babeldaob is the largest island and primarily formed as a volcanic island. The volcanic substrates consist of breccias and interbedded tuffs formed during the Eocene and Oligocene <ref name=" Hawkins & Castillo "/>, Mason et al 1956]. Within this volcanic substrate there are three distinguishable geologic units; the Babelthaup formation, the Aimeliik formation and the Ngeremlengui formation. These stratigraphic units record 12 million years of arc history <ref name=" Hawkins & Castillo "/>. The erupted material consists of basalt, andesite and dacite. Although eruption was submarine, the islands were formed by subsequent uplift. The erosion of the volcanic units during the Miocene to Pliocene lead to the formation of clay deposits in the low coastal waters, this clay formation is known as the Airai clay <ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/>. The interior uplands of Babeldaob are formed by three low ridge systems and have a maximum elevation of 242m above sea level is reached <ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/>. The low ridge system is heavily eroded and has well rounded peaks, giving Babeldaob an undulating terrain <ref name=" Fitzpatrick & Kataoka"/>. 
Early studies of the geology of Babeldaob were thought to indicate tectonic upliftment and it was suggested by Snyder and Butler <ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/> that no submersed habitation sites were likely on Babeldaob. However, the recent recognition of Holocene subsidence brings to light the possibility that the integrity and visibility of cultural deposits maybe compromised by wave erosion and tidal fluctuations<ref name=" Clark ">{{cite book|title= Human Colonization of the Palau Islands, Western Micronesia |accessdate=|author= Clark et al |authorlink= |coauthors= |date=2006 |format= |work= |publisher= Journal of Island and Coastal Archaeology |pages=1:215-232 |language= |archiveurl= |archivedate= |quote= }}</ref>.
===Rock Islands==
The rock islands are made of what is colloquially known as “Palau Limestone” which is actually raised coralline reef structures that formed in the warm waters that characterized the western Pacific during the early Miocene to late Pliocene<ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/>, the calcareous detritus of these ancient reefs are cemented by calcite <ref name=" Hawkins & Castillo "/>. These karstic (cave forming), limestone islands are defined by narrow elongated and precipitous ridges. The islands have poorly developed soils and no surface drainage <ref name=" Fitzpatrick & Kataoka"/>.
The rock islands typically have a distinctive mushroom shape and can range from 10m to 200m in height <ref name=" Fitzpatrick & Kataoka"/><ref name=" Mason ">{{cite book|title= Military Geology of Palau Islands, Caroline Islands |accessdate=|author= Mason et al |authorlink= |coauthors= |date=1956 |format= |work= |publisher= U.S. Army Engineers, Intelligence Division, Headquarters, U.S Army Pacific |pages= |language= |archiveurl= |archivedate= |quote= }}</ref>. The distinct shape is a result of the limestone being undercut at sea level by a solution notch which forms an overhang. These overhangs can range from 0.5 meters to 6meters in height <ref name=" Mason "/>. The topography of the rock islands is caused by the freshwater dissolving the limestone, often forming features such as fissures, sinkholes, caves and speleothems will form <ref name=" Fitzpatrick & Kataoka"/>.
==Climate and Vegetation==
The maritime tropical climate of the Palau islands is characterized by low seasonal variation<ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/>. Palau has a mean annual temperature of 27oC and the range in variation from the coolest months (January and February) to the warmest month (April) is less than 4oC <ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/>. Daily rains and short but torrential storms provide 3.8m of rain annually <ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/>. The annual humidity on the islands is as high as 82%<ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/>.


=== Human Population ===  
The Rock Islands are typically covered with a dense mass of tropical rain forest <ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/>. The larger volcanic islands have vegetation varying from tropical rain forest (Approximately 75% of the Palau islands are forested) <ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/> to savanna, and broad belts of coastal mangrove swampland <ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/>. Within the forests thereis a great diversity of plant life. The upland forests are known for their hardwoods, palms and pandanus. The food producing forests associations are known for resources such as coconut, breadfruit, mango, banana and betelnut. Several species of taro, cassava, pineapple and tobacco are also grown in garden areas by indigenous Palauens<ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/>. Swamp and Mangrove forests are found on coastal lowlands where the terrain is level and these forests that prevent the eroding soil from washing into the lagoonal areas<ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/>. A large portion (16%) of Babeldaob is covered in savanna/grassland environments<ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/>. While much of the Savannah environment may be the result of human activity, a large portion of it is almost certainly due to the poor soils on the volcanic island <ref name=" Snyder & Butler "/>. A variety of other habitats are also present on Palau including patch, fringing, and barrier reefs, reef walls, mud flats, sand and rubble flats, sea grass flats, mangrove forests, estuaries, freshwater streams, lakes, both fresh and marine, and the Rock islands <ref name=" Fitzpatrick & Kataoka"/>. 


*Population - 20,842 (July 2007 est.)<ref name="CIA"/>
==Terrestrial Fauna==


Prior to human habitation, there were no mammals or terrestrial reptiles on Palau probably due to its extreme isolation and distance from other large landmasses <ref name="Berger">{{cite book|title= Small bodied humans from Palau, Micronesia |accessdate=|author= Berger et al |authorlink= |coauthors= |date=2008 |format= |work= |publisher= PLoS One |pages= |language= |archiveurl= |archivedate= |quote= }}</ref>.  Early settlers probably imported pigs, rats and possibly fruit bats <ref name=" Fitzpatrick & Kataoka"/>. Today, there are typical domestic animals kept by islanders.


*Demographics - Palauan (Micronesian with Malayan and Melanesian admixtures) 69.9%, Filipino 15.3%, Chinese 4.9%, other Asian 2.4%, white 1.9%, Carolinian 1.4%, other Micronesian 1.1%, other or unspecified 3.2% (2000 census)<ref name="CIA"/>
==WWII combat==


==WWII history==
Palau was the scene of significant  combat during WWII. Task force 58’s operation DESECRATE ONE on March 30-31, 1944, more than 60  Japanese ships were sunk .  The attack involved U.S. carrier based aircraft attacking Japanese shipping and land based targets situated throughout the Rock Islands and on the main islands.   
Palau was the scene of significant  combat during WWII. Task force 58’s operation DESECRATE ONE on March 30-31, 1944, more than 60  Japanese ships were sunk .  The attack involved U.S. carrier based aircraft attacking Japanese shipping and land based targets situated throughout the Rock Islands and on the main islands.   
====Peleliu====
====Peleliu====
One of the bloodiest land battles of the U.S. led Pacific campaign began on Sept. 15th, 1944 when the 1st marine Division landed on the beaches of Peleliu island near the southern end of the archipelago with the intent of taking what was considered a strategic airfield.  The 15 square mile island was reportedly defended by upwards of 13,000 well entrenched Japanese troops and the invading U.S. Marines fielded as many as 20,000 troops <ref name="Gilliland">{{cite book|title=Peleliu remembered|accessdate=|author=Gilliland, A.O.| authorlink= |coauthors= |date=1994 |format= |work= |publisher=Booker publications|pages= |language= |archiveurl= |archivedate= |quote= }}</ref>.  Following more than 70 days of fighting, a Japanese commander surrendered.  By that time more than 1,500 U.S. servicemen had been killed and more than 10,000 Japanese servicemen had died <ref name="Gilliland"/>.
One of the bloodiest land battles of the U.S. led Pacific campaign began on Sept. 15th, 1944 when the 1st marine Division landed on the beaches of Peleliu island near the southern end of the archipelago with the intent of taking what was considered a strategic airfield.  The 15 square mile island was reportedly defended by upwards of 13,000 well entrenched Japanese troops and the invading U.S. Marines fielded as many as 20,000 troops <ref name="Gilliland">{{cite book|title=Peleliu remembered|accessdate=|author=Gilliland, A.O.| authorlink= |coauthors= |date=1994 |format= |work= |publisher=Booker publications|pages= |language= |archiveurl= |archivedate= |quote= }}</ref>.  Following more than 70 days of fighting, a Japanese commander surrendered.  By that time more than 1,500 U.S. servicemen had been killed and more than 10,000 Japanese servicemen had died <ref name="Gilliland"/>.
==Diving==
==Diving==
Palau is world-renowned for its diving.  Situated just of the Palau trench, deep water up-welling creates an ideal environment for a rich and abundant marine life.  Famous dive localities include Blue Corner, Blue Hole and diving the many WWII wrecks.  
Palau is world-renowned for its diving.  Situated just of the Palau trench, deep water up-welling creates an ideal environment for a rich and abundant marine life.  Famous dive localities include Blue Corner, Blue Hole and diving the many WWII wrecks.  
==Other interesting facts==
In 1686, the Spanish explorer Francisco Lezcano named Yap Island (now in the Federated States of Micronesia) "La Carolina" after King Charles II of Spain. The name was later generalized to include all the islands.


==References==
==References==


{{reflist}}
{{reflist}}

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Palau (7° 30' N, 133° 30' E) Palau, Micronesia (Also known as Belau) is situated among the Western Caroline Islands on the western Pacific rim. The Palau archipelago consists of more than 350 islets most of which are remnants of a tectonically uplifted coral reef [1]. The curved island chain runs for 150 km from North to South is 25km across at its widest point [2] [3]. The nearest large landmasses are New Guinea to the South and the Philippines to the West, both approximately 800km from Palau.

Geography

Area

  • total: 458 sq km
  • land: 458 sq km
  • water: 0 sq km
  • coastline: 1,519 km
  • lowest point: Pacific Ocean 0 m
  • highest point: Mount Ngerchelchuus 242 m [4]

Palau has a total landmass of 458km2, Babeldaob is the largest island in this archipelago and covers an area of 363km2 [3], which is more than 80% of the landmass of the entire archipelago. The remainder of the landmass consists of three volcanic islands (Koror, Ngerekebesang and Ngemelachel), an atoll (Kayangel), platform like reef islands (Peleliu, Anguar and parts of Koror) and several hundred uplifted coralline limestone islands or “Rock islands” [3][5]. In the Western pacific trench system, the Cenozoic subduction zone has lead to the Western Pacific basin being rimmed by trenches, back arc basins and island arcs [2]. The islands constituting Palau are apart of one of these island arcs systems. The 350 islands and islets of the Palau archipelago constitute the southernmost exposure of the Kyushu Palau Ridge [2]. Most of the islands are gaurded by a barrier reef with the exception for Kayangel Island in the North, and Anguar island as well as South West Island group to the South [5]. Palau is tectonically active with Babeldaob and Koror still rising relative to sea level.

Babeldaob

Babeldaob is the largest island and primarily formed as a volcanic island. The volcanic substrates consist of breccias and interbedded tuffs formed during the Eocene and Oligocene [2], Mason et al 1956]. Within this volcanic substrate there are three distinguishable geologic units; the Babelthaup formation, the Aimeliik formation and the Ngeremlengui formation. These stratigraphic units record 12 million years of arc history [2]. The erupted material consists of basalt, andesite and dacite. Although eruption was submarine, the islands were formed by subsequent uplift. The erosion of the volcanic units during the Miocene to Pliocene lead to the formation of clay deposits in the low coastal waters, this clay formation is known as the Airai clay [3]. The interior uplands of Babeldaob are formed by three low ridge systems and have a maximum elevation of 242m above sea level is reached [3]. The low ridge system is heavily eroded and has well rounded peaks, giving Babeldaob an undulating terrain [1].

Early studies of the geology of Babeldaob were thought to indicate tectonic upliftment and it was suggested by Snyder and Butler [3] that no submersed habitation sites were likely on Babeldaob. However, the recent recognition of Holocene subsidence brings to light the possibility that the integrity and visibility of cultural deposits maybe compromised by wave erosion and tidal fluctuations[6].

=Rock Islands

The rock islands are made of what is colloquially known as “Palau Limestone” which is actually raised coralline reef structures that formed in the warm waters that characterized the western Pacific during the early Miocene to late Pliocene[3], the calcareous detritus of these ancient reefs are cemented by calcite [2]. These karstic (cave forming), limestone islands are defined by narrow elongated and precipitous ridges. The islands have poorly developed soils and no surface drainage [1].

The rock islands typically have a distinctive mushroom shape and can range from 10m to 200m in height [1][7]. The distinct shape is a result of the limestone being undercut at sea level by a solution notch which forms an overhang. These overhangs can range from 0.5 meters to 6meters in height [7]. The topography of the rock islands is caused by the freshwater dissolving the limestone, often forming features such as fissures, sinkholes, caves and speleothems will form [1].

Climate and Vegetation

The maritime tropical climate of the Palau islands is characterized by low seasonal variation[3]. Palau has a mean annual temperature of 27oC and the range in variation from the coolest months (January and February) to the warmest month (April) is less than 4oC [3]. Daily rains and short but torrential storms provide 3.8m of rain annually [3]. The annual humidity on the islands is as high as 82%[3].

The Rock Islands are typically covered with a dense mass of tropical rain forest [3]. The larger volcanic islands have vegetation varying from tropical rain forest (Approximately 75% of the Palau islands are forested) [3] to savanna, and broad belts of coastal mangrove swampland [3]. Within the forests thereis a great diversity of plant life. The upland forests are known for their hardwoods, palms and pandanus. The food producing forests associations are known for resources such as coconut, breadfruit, mango, banana and betelnut. Several species of taro, cassava, pineapple and tobacco are also grown in garden areas by indigenous Palauens[3]. Swamp and Mangrove forests are found on coastal lowlands where the terrain is level and these forests that prevent the eroding soil from washing into the lagoonal areas[3]. A large portion (16%) of Babeldaob is covered in savanna/grassland environments[3]. While much of the Savannah environment may be the result of human activity, a large portion of it is almost certainly due to the poor soils on the volcanic island [3]. A variety of other habitats are also present on Palau including patch, fringing, and barrier reefs, reef walls, mud flats, sand and rubble flats, sea grass flats, mangrove forests, estuaries, freshwater streams, lakes, both fresh and marine, and the Rock islands [1].

Terrestrial Fauna

Prior to human habitation, there were no mammals or terrestrial reptiles on Palau probably due to its extreme isolation and distance from other large landmasses [8]. Early settlers probably imported pigs, rats and possibly fruit bats [1]. Today, there are typical domestic animals kept by islanders.

WWII combat

Palau was the scene of significant combat during WWII. Task force 58’s operation DESECRATE ONE on March 30-31, 1944, more than 60 Japanese ships were sunk . The attack involved U.S. carrier based aircraft attacking Japanese shipping and land based targets situated throughout the Rock Islands and on the main islands.

Peleliu

One of the bloodiest land battles of the U.S. led Pacific campaign began on Sept. 15th, 1944 when the 1st marine Division landed on the beaches of Peleliu island near the southern end of the archipelago with the intent of taking what was considered a strategic airfield. The 15 square mile island was reportedly defended by upwards of 13,000 well entrenched Japanese troops and the invading U.S. Marines fielded as many as 20,000 troops [9]. Following more than 70 days of fighting, a Japanese commander surrendered. By that time more than 1,500 U.S. servicemen had been killed and more than 10,000 Japanese servicemen had died [9].

Diving

Palau is world-renowned for its diving. Situated just of the Palau trench, deep water up-welling creates an ideal environment for a rich and abundant marine life. Famous dive localities include Blue Corner, Blue Hole and diving the many WWII wrecks.

Other interesting facts

In 1686, the Spanish explorer Francisco Lezcano named Yap Island (now in the Federated States of Micronesia) "La Carolina" after King Charles II of Spain. The name was later generalized to include all the islands.


References

  1. 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 1.6 Fitzpatrick, S.M and Kataoka, O. (2005). Prehistoric fishing in Palau, Micronesia: evidence from the Northern Rock Islands. Arch Oceania, 40: 1-13. 
  2. 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 Hawkins, J.W. and Castillo, P. (1998). Early history of the Izu-Bonin-Mariana arc system: Evidence from Belau and the Palau trench. The Island Arc, 7: 559-578. 
  3. 3.00 3.01 3.02 3.03 3.04 3.05 3.06 3.07 3.08 3.09 3.10 3.11 3.12 3.13 3.14 3.15 3.16 3.17 Snyder, D. and Butler,D.M (1997). Early history of the Izu-Bonin-Mariana arc system: Evidence from Belau and the Palau trench. Micronesian Resources Study. 
  4. CIA (2007). CIA factbook.
  5. 5.0 5.1 Olsudong, R. (2006). Cultural Heritage and Communities in Palau. Micronesian Journal of the Humanities and Social Sciences, 5(1/2): p547. 
  6. Clark et al (2006). Human Colonization of the Palau Islands, Western Micronesia. Journal of Island and Coastal Archaeology, 1:215-232. 
  7. 7.0 7.1 Mason et al (1956). Military Geology of Palau Islands, Caroline Islands. U.S. Army Engineers, Intelligence Division, Headquarters, U.S Army Pacific. 
  8. Berger et al (2008). Small bodied humans from Palau, Micronesia. PLoS One. 
  9. 9.0 9.1 Gilliland, A.O. (1994). Peleliu remembered. Booker publications.